maschinen krieger - Prototype Melusine. Resin conversion kit by Re-Build.

AKA "Proto Mel", the kit from Rebuild works with the WAVE PKA Gustav, Ketzer, Fredrik or Konrad. It was produced for WF. I picked up a couple over the last two years from Yahoo Japan. 

Messing around with Instagram filters....

I really like the photo below. It captures a time during the build process where I should have considered stopping acalling the model done. While I like what I am ending up with now finish wise, seeing this photo again, I like the point ar which the model was at so much more. Hind sight is 20/20. 

After lacquer paints and oil slurry wash. I wish I stopped here.

I'm playing with filters and photo tools to exaggerate the model's details and colour to see the degree of vividness I like. Then I might try to replicate the finish the photo portrays so that the model in person appears close to it.

Photo using Instagram and iPhone photo adjustment tools

With out photo adjustment tools

maschinen krieger - Mel Variant. FIN.

Done. Well, I just need to add the do-dads to the sides and then I'm done.....

I finished it off with oil paints and Copic sketch markers which act like brushes. I used the Copic blending marker as well as Tamiya thinner to get the results I wanted. The Tamiya acrylic thinner is alcohol base, so it works well with the the Copic markers which are alcohol base too. In his first book, Kow Sensei uses the markers on a Schenkel and Snakeye for weathering and shading.  

In this entry, For Struschie. Painting a Mel as in the picture below it, you can see how I pre-weather the model with oil and lacquer paints.

And in this entry,  MEL VARIANT  after the decals, I started to use Copic markers for rust and streaking  and oil paints for colour modulation resulting in the final weathering on for the Mel.

Sorry. I didn't shoot using the markers in a tutorial style, but you get the idea from the before (pics you just viewed) and after pics of the Mel completed (below).

 One last thing. Well two:
1. I cut the PKA exhaust down at the pipe's return enabling me to mount it closer to the engine cover. I also turned it pointing downward. The way I originally had it; pointed up and further away from the engine was irritating. Now it counters the other surface details that are mounted in an upward pointing position. It makes the silhouette of the Mel Variant cohesive now.
2. I'll have more pics (studio quality) at some point... in case you care. :)
3. Thanks you Struschie for the engine cover!

Mel Variant

I'm looking to clear a slew of suits of my bench started over the past 9 months before starting any new projects. I find having a bunch of builds going on proves to be more of a distraction than productive in the the grand scheme of my model making.

The engine cover is from a batch of part cast by Stuschie.  I saw this part used in a build first by Kishi Omori and later another by Fraccesco Benedetti. The part is an oil pan I believe from a Tamiya motorcycle kit.

 

For Struschie. Painting a Mel.

After priming and "texturing" with Tamiya putty mixed with Gaia Evo Ex-02 black and the edges and panels outlined with Mr Metal, I trace the areas with oil paint.

Then come a few coats of thinned Gaia lacquers right over the still wet oil paint. I paint
just short of an edge or panel line.

The lacquer coat dries fast while the oil is still wet under them. As the oil dries it will crack, pit or distress the dried lacquer surface. At this point or later if you prefer, pick at the lacquer covered oil spots with a toothpick to simulate chipping.